Patagonia at last

This afternoon I finally landed in Patagonia, the highlight of my South America visit. I must say that I was a little sad to leave Buenos Aires in the end. The weather was so nice and warm and sunny, with a cooling breeze, and I really appreciated all the green areas in the city. Architecturally, it strongly resembles Paris, and it has been called the most European city in South America. What ever that means. Europe is not a homogenous continent. I also met some really nice people in BA, and it's always sad to leave people knowing that you are very unlikely ever to see them again...

But I had a very pleasant surprise at the airport this morning! When I checked in online yesterday, I suddently found out that there was a 15 kg checked bag limit on domestic flights, and 5 kg for carry-on! I can tell you that I am hauling a lot more than that around the world! I couldn't find anywhere to pay for excess baggage on Aerolineas Argentinas's web site, so I was dreading a hefty surcharge at the airport. But bless the very nice man who checked me in. The suitcase weighed 25 kg and he didn't even bat an eye-lid before handing me my boarding pass and wishing me a pleasant flight! No one bothered about how much my cabin bag weighed.The latin desmadre can certainly work either way. 

The suitcase in question was brand new by the way, bought in Buenos Aires yesterday. KLM/Air France had managed to damage the suitcase I brought from Europe, but unfortunately I didn't notice that before I left the airport. I don't think there is any point trying to e-mail them for compensation, I'd just be wasting my time and raising my blood pressure unnecessarily. My blood pressure did go up a bit when paying for the suitcase though. Yes it wasn't cheap, but that was not the reason. When I handed over my credit card, I was also asked for my passport, which I don't normally drag around with me. But I had no choice but go back to the hotel and get it, otherwise, no sale. Even when I came back with the passport, it took forever and a day to close the sale. And this was in a large supermarket, kind of a Tesco Extra, so people in line behind me just wanted to do their grocery shopping while the cashier was faffing about with all sorts. Apparently it is normal to ask for ID when anyone pays with a credit card, even the locals. So be warned. 

At the same time I was reminded how long it takes to get through the check-out in Latin America. I'm not sure why that is. It seems customers here are unusually inquisitive about the prices charged and the cashier also usually packs the bags for them. Well patience is one thing you must muster to survive here.

I was really kicking myself when we came in to land in El Calafate this afternoon. During the approach I had a spectacular view of Lago Argentino and the mountains in the background, and it would have made a stunning photo. But - my camera was in the overhead locker and the seatbelt sign was on. So if you ever get to fly from Buenos Aires to El Calafate, be sure to book a window seat on the right side of the plane (looking forward) and hope for a clear day! And this picture is nicked:

What I saw of the landscape between the airport and the town was not unlike Iceland. Tall mountains and largely treeless steppe. The town of El Calafate supposedly has 21,000 inhabitants, which is not too bad, but the main thoroughfare is lined with shops catering to the tourists. I saw two shops displaying both The North Face and Timberland logos... No, I didn't take a picture.

I arrived rather late on a Sunday afternoon here so I'll have to go and sort out my glacier experience tomorrow. I also have to nail down the precise itinerary for the remainder of my time in Patagonia, and book accommodation. I am not looking forward to the long bus journey to and from Ushuaia! No matter where I start from, it seems an 11-12-hour stretch there and back is inevitable... But I can't miss the southernmost city in the world.

P.S. Still dogged with slow internet, so the pix will have to wait for now...